Set
deep in the heart of the African interior, inaccessible by road and
only 100km (60 miles) south of where Stanley uttered that immortal
greeting “Doctor Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene reminiscent of
an Indian Ocean island beach idyll.
Silky white coves hem in the azure waters of Lake Tanganyika,
overshadowed by a chain of wild, jungle-draped peaks towering almost
2km above the shore: the remote and mysterious Mahale Mountains.
Mahale Mountains, like its northerly neighbour Gombe Stream, is home
to some of Africa’s last remaining wild chimpanzees: a population of
roughly 800, habituated to human visitors by a Japanese research
project founded in the 1960s.
Tracking the chimps of Mahale is a magical experience. The guide's eyes
pick out last night's nests - shadowy clumps high in a gallery of
trees crowding the sky. Scraps of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung
become valuable clues, leading deeper into the forest. Butterflies
flit in the dappled sunlight.
Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each other's glossy
coats in concentrated huddles, squabbling noisily, or bounding into
the trees to swing effortlessly between the vines.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's largest
mountain, held sacred by the local Tongwe people, and at 2,460
metres (8,069 ft) the highest of the six prominent points that make
up the Mahale Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the slopes support a
diverse forest fauna, including readily observed troops of red
colobus, red-tailed and blue monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array of
colourful forest birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to the mountain
spirits, hiking through the montane rainforest belt – home to an
endemic race of Angola colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges
chequered with alpine bamboo. Then bathe in the impossibly clear
waters of the world’s longest, second-deepest and least-polluted
freshwater lake – harbouring an estimated 1,000 fish species -
before returning as you came, by boat.
NOTE:-The same rules for
chimpanzee viewing at Gombe Stream apply at Mahale.
